This discussion starts at the bottom. 

Fader part number is V6226100     B10k

Description Slide Pot., Motor Drive 

Faders 1-16 and Stereo Fader are the same part number. 

Faders are manufactured by ALPS. Number printed on the fader Tom pulled out is ALPS 251C 10KB

From: TB 
Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2013 3:00 PM
To: 01v96@yahoogroups.com 
Subject: Re: [01v96] Fader repair

Well I have actually had some success.

That was Fader 1. Which was really bad. Fader 2 sort of worked ok but stuck sometimes.

What I know now is that Fader 1 is just shot. without that contact piece there is no repairing it.

So with what I learned from Fader 1 I opened Fader 2.

If you put the knob back on, or tape the handle tab mid way so it can't fall through you can open the fader like a book. Just hinge it back from motor end. so when it's open it's laid out twice as long now hinged at motor. Then carefully lift out the contact board ( it has the four contacts ). Just be careful not to disrupt the fader knob piece. The board can get hung a bit on the metal tabs of the housing but basically come out easily and basically just floats in there.

Once you lift that off you see the contact "fingers". they are most likely going to be caked with greasy dust or damaged beyond reasonable repair. On my Fader 2 they were just full of dust. 

Air(breath), tweezers, scotch tape, were enough to clean them. they looked like they were wearing little shoes of compressed dust and dirt. Some so small that even the drug store tweezers wouldn't even squeeze together enough to pick up. A light tough with scotch tape helps.

Then just reverse to to reassemble. The tabs that hold the enclosure look like little two pronged forks. Do NOT squeeze them all the way together. Just squeeze them from fully expanded(closed case) to just a little gap between prongs. When you reassemble the case you need to press a very thin screw driver blade between them. Then perhaps a little thicker blade until they are fully expanded again.

I would say that Fader 2 is good to go and would have no qualms or re-installing it even knowing the cost new is only $25.

Fader 1 though, unless you can buy those contact housings from ALPS really cheap and have some time on your hands, I would say forget it. Just salvage the parts at best. Having to thread that belt is an ordeal all the time taking care not to damage those super delicate contacts.

If you follow my routine above though it's really like an open and closed book with a few minutes of intricate cleaning.

There is one other interesting thing I noticed. My faders 1 and 2 slid very easily. Minimal resistance to movement. The others had some friction. So if you are feeling some of your faders lose friction, you may be on the verge of having to clean them. Possibly a little warning sign. the dust I believe lifts the fingers up off the surface and it's more like sliding a cloth across the board than the metal contacts.

I'll try to edit some pictures up with directions and post to the files section. Or maybe make a short YT video.

=== Oh BTW...... no dirt and hair or whatever inside my board. Very clean, looked like new in there. So I will still have to deal with the audio after all this. Unless somehow it could be related. that Fader 1 was all screwed up so who knows. It might have been shorting something.

On 8/10/2013 10:59 PM, Ronny Morris wrote:

 
I got the pic Tom, yeah they look totally different than the 60mm slide pots. I’m amazed that the band strip lasts as long as it does. 
 
R
 
From: TB 
Sent: Saturday, August 10, 2013 9:50 PM
To: 01v96@yahoogroups.com 
Subject: Re: [01v96] Fader repair [1 Attachment]

Yeah, I was just halfway joking... but these things really are getting into the watch-maker category. The originals may be different I don't know. I basically just wanted to see what was inside.

You could lube them no problem but I swear those contacts are delicate with a capital D. I'm surprised they can even function as long as they do. Trying to attach image, not sure if it work or not. Med ball point pen for reference. This photo is after I cleaned and demangled them. 

On 8/10/2013 7:59 PM, Ronny Morris wrote:

 
    I saw a tech put lithium on the plastic strip, Tom without bending the lock tabs and taking the bottom off. IIRC, it was for lagging faders. You can do that at the opposite end from the motor, while running the fader shaft slowly from top to bottom, where the little wheel is that rotates the strip, but he told me to use just a tiny bit. Of course these aren’t permanent fixes and going to the trouble of opening the case up may warrant a new one anyway. Just relating what I’ve seen. 
 
Ronny 
 
From: TB 
Sent: Saturday, August 10, 2013 6:54 PM
To: 01v96@yahoogroups.com 
Subject: [01v96] Fader repair

I figured out what the 01V96 faders are good for once they go bad.......

If you ever have a musician in your studio that is bugging you for any 
reason... just give them an old V96 fader. tell them they need to take 
it apart, wipe down the conductor and then just reassemble it.

Now be prepared to be handed back a small array of parts that look like 
anything but a useable fader..... but I guarrantee they will be occupied 
for a looooooooooooooooong time.

These are definitely not an easy fix nor for the impatient. I think I 
know why they go bad though.

On the inside is a strip of what I suppose is conductive plastic. The 
faders have a lite silicone feel to them as well. This internal 
conductor is slippery / lightly oily feeling.

Anyway on the underside of the knob tab are three contacts. The center 
contact is like two "finger"s. Very soft flexible copper. Maybe in the 
1/64" category.

Beside that is a pair of conductor "hands". Each "hand" has 5 "fingers" 
like hairs of soft copper. Mine had a clump of black oily dust stuck to 
them.

Now that fader knob tab also holds a toothed belt that is driven by the 
motor. The upper case has an idler wheel.

So even after you wipe things down, straighten the little hair-like 
fingers and sort of figure out how it's supposed to go back 
together....... you still need 5 hands and a space monkey from Mars to 
get it back together.

The numbers stamped on these things is ALPS 251C 10KB if anyone is 
interested.